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Flyhawk 1/700 scale HMS Aurora light cruiser plastic scale model ship kit review

Detailed ship model features 3D-printed, turned-brass, and photo-etched metal parts
RELATED TOPICS: SHIPS | BRITISH NAVY
Kit:FH1157 // Scale:1/700 // Price:$98.95
Manufacturer:
Flyhawk (Sample courtesy of mfr.)
Pros:
Fine fits; comprehensive photo-etched metal parts
Cons:
3D-printed parts fragile and not fully cured
Comments:
Injection-molded plastic; 517 parts (24 brass, 18 resin, 121 PE); decals; masks
FSDWB1121_Flyhawk_Aurora_01
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FSDWB1121_Flyhawk_Aurora_box
HMS Aurora was one of four Royal Navy light cruisers built in the late 1930s as a lower cost fleet scout compared to previous trade route long-range Leander class. This 1/700 scale kit represents her 1941 fitout and is the third offering of this ship by Flyhawk with new parts. The previous two releases depict its appearance in 1945 and 1949 after transfer to China.

This finely engineered kit is a wonderful challenge because you will work with three mediums — plastic; brass and photo-etched metal (PE); and 3D-printed resin. For this review, I also added Flyhawk’s wooden deck set (No. FH710092). All up, 517 parts get wedged into a hull that is just 8.67 inches long and less than an inch wide. Masks are also included if you don’t use the wooden decks.

Uniquely, Mountbatten pink decorates the hull and upper deckhouse. As an escort commander, Lord Mountbatten marveled at how a Union Castle liner disappeared into the sunset due to its paint scheme, so he thought it might be an advantage to camouflage warships similarly. Initially, a darker shade of pink, it was lightened by 1941 because too much red made the ships stand out in normal daylight. Ultimately, the pink was phased out when neutral gray was found to have the same effect. The formula in the instructions — 8 parts Tamiya JN Grey (No. XF-12) and 1 part Hull Red (No. XF-9) matched the RN Ship Colors Chips from Snyder and Short Enterprises.

The single page, double-sided instruction sheet features just six steps and 31 subassembly graphics. The diagrams are crowded because the PE steps are integral on this kit rather than separate as on past Flyhawk kits, and there are a couple of vague spots. For example, Step 1 indicates trims and there are optional holes to drill, but it doesn’t explain which one you drill determines if you are adding a 20mm or UP mount in Step 5. This happens throughout assembly, so be sure to study ahead. Also, don’t wait util Step 6 to attach the railings to the superstructure because overlaps make attaching them difficult at that point.

The kit can be built full-hull or was a waterline model. Both fit fine, but no stand is included to support the full-hull option.

If you use the aftermarket wooden deck, attach it before adding the deckhouses. The deck fits nearly perfectly with minor cutbacks necessary for the aft-most deckhouse. A note of caution: Very thin and backed with adhesive, the deck is impossible to move after it has been placed.

Step 2 works up the foredeck. It was fairly clear, but it includes a diagram to create three PE parts that never found a home (Nos. PE 67, 68, 69). The brass replacement barrels for the three turrets add refinement, but you can opt for the plastic barrels.

Also, Step 2 introduces the bridge structure and the first use of the 3D-printed resin parts. The parts are very accurate, but when I removed the rangefinder (No. PT-13), it basically shattered into dust on the first cut. (I replaced it with brass rod.) I know 3D-printed parts can be brittle, so I reached out to friends with 3D printers. I was informed that the UV-curing resin parts may not have fully cured and placing them in sunlight will fix that problem. I ran into the same problem when a section of deck (No. PT-17) warped and broke during handling and gluing.

Step 4 creates a pair of detailed quad 2-pounders complete with railings and PE gunsights! (Time to bring out the magnifying glass.) The forward mast builds from two different diameters of brass rod, a 3D-printed crow’s nest, and a PE ladder and antenna. The lengths required for each section of the mast section and yards are clearly indicated and they appear within scale. I shortened the ladder to allow the base to go to the deck below. Note, the depth-charge rack is not indicated to be placed if you add the UP-unit option. Finally, I assembled the four twin 4-inch guns with the optional turned-brass barrels.

Flyhawk’s HMS Aurora is perfect for experienced modelers who like a challenge and appreciate the fine detail of the 3D-printed and PE parts. The kit’s differing media require at least three types of glue, excellent eyesight, and a steady hand.
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