Seversky’s P-35 was the first U.S. Army Asir Forces all-metal single-seat fighter with retractable landing gear and a fully enclosed cockpit. Dora Wing’s first 1/48 scale plastic model kit of the plane is the J9, the Swedish version, several of which saw their way into U.S. service as the P-35A.
The model kit consists of 176 plastic parts, some of which go unused in this version, plus 29 photo-etched metal (PE) parts, including seat belts. The kit also supplies masks for the canopy, observation glass, and landing lights that fit well. The flaps and rudder are posable.
The six-page instruction book includes 34 assembly steps, a parts map, and a suggested color table. I found the part numbers difficult to read on both the index and the trees. The assembly drawings are illustrated, but part locations tend to be vague, especially concerning the engine. Color plates and decals show four marking options.
I recommend studying the instructions and building up as many subassemblies as possible.
The cockpit and rear jump seat area consist of many small parts and use almost half of the PE parts. Alternative instrument panels with recesses for the gauge decals are included. Be sure to install the observation glass (Part G11) before closing the fuselage. Fitting it required fine-tuning because it is a butt fit in the opening. I secured mine with white glue around the perimeter.
The R-1830-45 radial engine comprises 29 parts. A word of warning: I broke the pushrods on part nos. A2 and A3 while removing them from their trees and replaced them with styrene rod. Also, PE Part No. 29 called out in the instructions was not included, so I made a replacement with styrene.
The engine lacks a positive mount with the fuselage. I pressed it into the cowl ring, which gave it the proper standoff from the front. The cowl is a four-part assembly plus two PE flaps. Deviating from the instructions, I assembled parts B3, B7, and B8 first. I annealed the PE cowl flaps with a match making them easier to bend to match the cowl radius. I used thin styrene to form a shoulder inside the plastic cowl at the seam where the PE flaps join the plastic cowl.
The fuselage and wings lack locators, but this did not create any issues because the fit was good. The one-piece lower wing sets the dihedral, and the upper wing joins to the fuselage almost perfectly. I used minimal water-based putty to fill the joints at the wing roots and underneath where the rear of the wing meets the fuselage.
The tail wheel assembly is weak and should be installed before closing the fuselage. I recommend bolstering it and the main gear legs with metal pins to better support the model.
The canopy is clear and fits OK but needs a little trimming to sit properly in the closed position. It can be posed open, but there is no positive contact for the center section when open. Adding a small strip of plastic behind the framing would correct this.
I used Testors Zinc Chromate enamel for the base color and Tamiya acrylics for everything else.
The decals were opaque and settled well. With warm water, they released easily from the backing paper.
Given the high parts count, including many small bits, this kit is best suited to an experienced builder with a high level of patience. I spent more than 70 hours on mine. That said, the result is well worth the effort. Kudos to Dora Wings for its continued interest in unique subjects.