Whether you are attaching photo-etched metal parts (PE) to plastic, resin, or other PE, you can’t always use traditional model glue. Follow these tips to get stuck!
Use superglue for PE. Thick or gel superglue are useful for building up a join and give extra positioning time. Thin superglue is perfect for an instant bond. Keep debonder handy to detach misplaced parts, and precision applicators, like the Glue Looper, can be handy.

To apply superglue, dispense a drop on a disposable surface, like the underside of a small plastic cup. Dip the applicator into the glue then transfer it to the part. Capillary action will draw the superglue into the join. Then, press and hold the part in place until the glue sets.

When the applicator inevitably gets occluded with dried superglue, hold it over a lighter flame. The solid glue will quickly burn away, leaving you with a clean applicator for continued use.

Acrylic glue, like Ammo by Mig Jimenez Ultra Glue (No. A.MIG-2031), makes a good alternative to superglue when immediate joins aren’t critical or you are attaching PE to plastic parts, especially clear parts. Brush on acrylic glue and clean up with water.

Apply a little pressure to the part for a few seconds to position it. Then let the acrylic glue completely cure for a good bond.

Finally, don’t forget to prime PE. Most model paints don’t stick well to bare metal; primer will help. Some primers work for metal and plastic, or you can prime PE as you go using Tamiya Metal Primer (No. 87204). It goes on a bit thick but dries clear and is useful for all paints.