Kit: No. 603
Scale: 1/32
Manufacturer: Roden, from Squadron Mail Order, 972-242-8663, www.squadron.com
Price: $37.98
Comments: Injection-molded, 103 parts, decals
Pros: Good detail, well-printed decals
Cons: Fit problems, lozenge decals must be cut to fit, no rib-tape decals
Considering the fame of Fokker’s E.I Eindecker, Dr.I Triplane, and D.VII biplane, the Fokker D.VI is comparatively obscure. This late-World War I German fighter looks like a two-winged version of the Dr.I. Indeed, many of the parts are the same as those of the triplane. Only 60 were built, and the D.VI was soon eclipsed by the outstanding Fokker D.VII.
Roden’s kit is well-molded in light gray styrene, and like the real aircraft, some of this kit’s parts are common to the company’s Dr.I kit. Control surfaces are all separate and control horns fit nicely in notches. The eight-page instructions include a history, assembly drawings, three marking diagrams, and rigging instructions. The construction steps are nicely illustrated, but precise part location is sometimes unclear. There are three large decal sheets, one for the topside lozenge-printed fabric, another for the underside fabric, and a markings sheet for the three schemes.
The first step was to prime all parts with Model Master gull gray. The Windsock Data File on the D.VI states wood and metal parts were painted light gray. Many parts could be left this color, and it serves as a good under coat for decal application.
The lozenge decals cover a good portion of the model, so it was a pleasant surprise to find they were strong, easy to apply, and conformed well to the surfaces. I used Microset and Microsol solutions. The only catch is the decals are not printed to shape but in large blocks that I had to trim to shape. Rather than using scissors or a knife, I cut the dry decals along the edges of the parts with light strokes from a sanding stick. Blue or pink rib tapes for the wings are not supplied, but Roden suggests cutting your own from an inadequate top-side lozenge supply. Width of the strips is not mentioned. I left them off and may apply aftermarket ones later.
The cockpit interior is well-detailed, but the fit is challenging, and instrument faces and seat belts are missing. Don’t forget to drill the holes in the fuselage for the cabane struts and aileron actuator cables before assembling the fuselage halves. From experience with Roden’s Dr.I, I learned to omit one ammo box (part D4) and part C8, which can’t be seen. The fore decking had to be altered to get it to lie flat on the fuselage edges. Two sets of Spandau machine guns are supplied, one meant for use with photoetched metal perforated jackets that are not included. Holes for the ammo-feed and spent-shell chutes needed to be enlarged.
A frustrating and critical part of the assembly was joining the lower wing to the fuselage. Its spar had to be made flush with the bottom of the fuselage to get the right angle of attack and make the struts and upper wing positions come out right. With that corrected, the forward tripod cabane struts could be fixed in place and the upper wing added. Next, the accurately thin-but-fragile N-shaped interplane struts could be added. Lastly, the rear cabane struts can be made to fit.
I added fine brass-wire pins to help attach the ailerons, elevator, and rudder. Make sure the correct landing-gear struts are used or the axle fairing will come out tilted. The detailed engine fits nicely in the cowl and has a good shaft mount.
The model is accurate in dimension and contour, but like the Dr.I kit, the horizontal stabilizer has a wide, slightly recessed band down the center, and the circular seam on the cowl face plate is missing. I spent about 48 hours on this model, but I want to spend more making proper rib tapes. With considerable effort, a handsome model is possible for modelers who have biplane experience and are able to solve fit problems.
– Dr. Bill Funcke