Tristar PzKpfw I Ausf A (SdKfz 101)
Kit: 028
Scale: 1/35
Manufacturer: Tristar, from Model Rectifier Corp., 732-225-2100
Price: $45
Comments: Injection-molded, 581 parts (46 photoetched), decals
Pros: Full interior; crisp detail; options; smart use of photoetched metal
Cons: Instructions unclear about options, location of some parts
A couple years ago, Tristar released two versions of the diminutive PzKpfw I – but never like this. The Chinese company’s “Convertible Kit” package provides both early and late versions of the Ausf A, plus a complete interior (engine, transmission, driver’s position, and turret) along with a few corrected parts.
The moldings are good, although the dark-yellow plastic is soft and easily damaged. All the previous decals are included, with four options for the early version: one for a Spanish tank, two for overall gray, and a desert yellow North African scheme. And there are two late-version options: one gray, the other desert yellow.
I painted interior components before construction, countermanding Tristar’s instructions and using Panzer interior buff according to references. Most of the parts fit well, but I had to hack the floor plate (part E-15) to fit between the firewall and the transmission. Ejector-pin marks on the interior walls were easily removed.
The multipart lower hull includes separate sidewalls, easing interior work. Careful dry-fitting and filing produced a good fit; I filled small gaps with Mr. Surfacer 500. The fenders feature separate outer-edge strips, adding scale fidelity. To aid painting, I left off the running gear until the hull was finished.
The engine goes together well, looks good under a coat of paint, and snaps right into place.
I shimmed the glacis plate (part E-4) to align it with the upper hull. Curiously, the instructions show the radio as four parts; my kit had only three.
The instructions indicate cutting away molded intake screens on the rear deck parts (No. I-5) and replacing them with photoetched-metal mesh. I destroyed part of a molded frame in the process, but a strip-styrene repair looked OK – and the mesh looks great. Six tiny, photoetched-metal pieces detail each of the front-fender attachments – but they look nice, too. Optional parts for air intake and outlet cowls and a smoke-candle rack are included, but the instructions don’t indicate the appropriate versions. The turret interior included the rear sections of the twin MG13 machine guns, a sight, and a wire-frame seat. All fit well.
With the interior complete, I laid the hatches in place temporarily for painting. Modeling the Polish campaign, I painted the hull, turret, and road wheels Polly Scale Panzer gray. The decals were very thin, well-printed, opaque, went down easily over a coat of Future, and responded well to Micro Set and Micro Sol.
After painting the tires very dark gray, I attached all running gear except the drive sprocket, then gave the model an oil wash and dry-brushed it with Panzer gray lightened with flat white.
Each tiny track link had three sprue attachment points I cleaned off with a few swipes of a sanding stick. Starting with the still-loose drive sprocket, I assembled two track segments for each side, giving the top run a little sag between the return rollers. After painting, I attached the tracks and over-coated the model with clear flat. Then I popped the hatches open to show off the interior.
I spent about 48 hours on my little Panzer; much of that time was spent on the interior and tracks. The finished model scales out perfectly according to Lentz and Doyle’s Germany’s Panzers in World War II, and it captures the blocky look of this prewar tank. I recommend it to experienced builders who enjoy lots of small parts and photoetched metal.
– Aaron Skinner