Kit: No. 24170
Scale: 1/24
Manufacturer: Tamiya, distributed by Tamiya America, 2 Orion, Aliso Viejo, CA 92656-4200, phone 800-826-4922
Price: $32
Comments: Injection molded, 134 parts (2 photoetched, 12 vinyl), decals.
The Morgan Car Company was founded in England in 1909 by H.F.S. Morgan, who started by building three-wheel cycle cars. In 1935, the Morgan 4/4 (four cylinders, four wheels) was introduced.
The 4/4 still is produced, hand built using an ash wood chassis and frame covered with sheet steel. Engine size and manufacturers have changed, but the classic Morgan look has changed little since 1935.
Tamiya's kit contains a frame, body, and drive train. The top can be up or down, and a functional bonnet (front hood in American terms) is included. The plastic moldings are excellent throughout.
Before construction, I painted the main body parts with creamy white and black automotive lacquers, then applied the self-stick photoetched logo over the grille. I sealed the body with Future floor polish.
While the paint was drying I built the rest of the model. I stripped the chrome plating from the carburetor, air cleaner, wiper motor, and wire wheels. I painted the air cleaner semigloss black and the rest of them Model Master Metalizer non-buffing aluminum.
This engine is a good candidate for additional wiring and plumbing as it is visible with the bonnet removed. Leave off the gas filler tube until you are ready to place the body on the frame.
I didn't care for the modern high-back seats, and I may modify them to the old style later. You may want to install the rear shocks after the body is attached.
Instead of painting the running-board trim silver, I applied a strip of Bare-Metal Foil. Take care when joining the body and chassis that you don't damage the steering link arm. I had to trim the inside door handles to get them to fit. Rather than use the specified black, I painted the exhaust headers Metalizer burnt metal and stainless steel.
The wheel knock-offs are left- and right-handed, so don't mix them up. Installing the bonnet is a delicate operation; the hinge pins are fragile. There should be large gaps along the bottom of the bonnet halves, so don't try to force them down to the fenders. If you choose to attach the bonnet strap (which will restrict opening) super glue the ends as you will have to stretch the strap slightly to fit. I used Bare-Metal Foil on the windshield trim.
The kit scales accurately according to Morgan, Illustrated Buyers Guide. It took me only 15 hours to complete, but due to the small, fragile parts, I would not recommend it to beginners. For British sports-car fans, though, it's the bee's knees!
Ross Whitaker