The GAZ-AA truck was basically a Soviet license-built Ford Model AA truck. The AAA version added a second rear axle, creating a 4 x 6 configuration for better off-road performance.
MiniArt’s GAZ-AAA cargo truck, molded in light gray plastic, features excellent detail; only the F sprues showed much flash. Thin, clear parts are provided for the windows and headlights. Also provided are a small photoetched-metal fret and a decal sheet for six different vehicles (four Russian and two captured German). MiniArt includes its German Feldgendarmerie figure set — odd for a Soviet truck. The large instruction booklet features large, well-drawn diagrams.
I used a Micro Mark magnetic jig to ensure the chassis was straight, leaving off the bed beams (parts Bb29 and Bb30) until after the frame was set. It is easier to add the U bolts to the bed beams if you attach the bolt plates (Fb19) to the bottom of the frame first. There are fine locating bumps on the bottoms of the frame for the plates (careful you don’t sand them off).
The tires are a set of slices that are stacked to produce a tread, but it is impossible to determine from the diagrams which sides go to the outside.
Like the frame, the rear axle assembly must be carefully aligned; I built a jig for this. There is an error in Step 13 — the spring subassemblies should be reversed. Make sure your axles are positioned as shown in the diagrams, but add the springs from Step 10 where it shows putting the springs from Step 9, making sure that the mounts (parts Fb22) point in the correct direction. Once those parts were dry, I added the brake drums and mounted the assembly to the frame but left it free to pivot. Then I added the front axle assembly, including its brake drums. Once the glue on the front axle started to set, I placed the frame on a piece of glass and made sure each drum touched down before gluing the rear axle assembly in place.
Finally, I added all the details to the frame. The delicate brake linkages are difficult to remove from the sprue and clean up; I used a fine razor saw but still broke one. Before working on the cab, I assembled the cargo bed but left it off the frame until it was painted and the cab was in place.
Building the cab, be sure you have all of the subassemblies ready to ensure everything lines up. The clear parts fit well; I installed them with PSA (pressure-sensitive adhesive). While there are locators on the frame for the cab floor, they are subtle and indefinite. I used other parts of the cab to determine the hood fit. After the floor and forward cab, I added the doors, back, and roof. There were small gaps around the doors, and I had trouble fitting the roof. I finally opted for a small gap at the rear roof joint (which I filled with white glue). I also left the driver’s door open to dodge fit problems, and posed the hood open to show off the little engine. Were I to build another, I would assemble the entire cab before adding it to the chassis.
The black and white decals were slightly off-register, but they reacted well to Micro Sol and Micro Set. Before installing the clear parts, I gave everything a coat of Polly Scale clear flat.
This was one of the most challenging builds I’ve had in a while. Numerous small parts and lack of locators require an experienced modeler, but the finished kit matches published dimensions, looks great, and is worth the effort. It took me about 34 hours.
MiniArt has already issued a later version of the vehicle with spare tires mounted on the front fenders rather than under the cargo bed. I hope for other versions as well.
Note: A version of this review appeared in the October 2012 FineScale Modeler.