With modern molding and engineering, kits are generally pretty good these days. So, superlatives are easy to dispense when talking about new kits and dismiss when listening.
Believe me when I say Meng’s T-90 lives up to the hype. The box is jammed with beautifully molded plastic parts free of flash and ejector-pin marks. This release includes the option to fit the TBS-86 ’dozer blade to the bow.
Other features include working individual-link tracks, working torsion-bar suspension, movable hatches, alignment jigs for the road-wheel arms and track assembly, vinyl for anti-radiation turret armor, mantlet cover, and ’dozer-blade hydraulic line.
A small photoetched-brass fret provides engine grilles and covers for the ’dozer actuators. A separate photoetched-metal mask is provided to paint the road wheels.
One of the most conspicuous features on the T-90 are the Shtora electro-optical jamming system dazzlers on the turret. Designed to disrupt laser target designators, they are seen in photos to illuminate with a red glow. Meng includes a simple drop-in LED circuit to reproduce the effect in scale.
Markings for three Russian army tanks, all wearing different camouflage, are included. However, only one shows the ’dozer installed.
Construction starts with the running gear, where vinyl polycaps sandwiched in the road wheels, idlers, and drive sprockets allow them to move and be removed for painting. The torsion bars work well, and the jig is perfect for setting them straight. Take care assembling the control arms on the first, second, and last axles, and you’ll have a flexible suspension that will work great on a diorama.
The instructions show building and installing the tracks in steps 7 and 8. I left them off until the hull was assembled and painted, but started putting them together. Experience has left me leery of working individual-link tracks held together by plastic pins, but these were a dream to work with. The two-part jig secures six links; the pins go in five at a time with almost no chance of missing the mark, and they click satisfyingly in place.
Two notes of caution: Follow the instructions and lever the links into the jig. It’ll take extra work, but don’t be tempted to press straight down; that’ll shear off the pins on the links. Second, before popping each run out of the jig, trim the pin runner off with a razor saw. Then pop the run out and ensure each pin is seated firmly by pressing on the cut end with a toothpick. You don’t need to press hard, just enough to be sure it’s snug.
Once you get into the swing of things, the tracks go pretty quickly. I built the second run in about an hour, half the time I spent on the first.
Unfortunately, I came up short on pins after losing a few to misalignment and breakage. The instructions say 96 links are needed on each side, but it’s closer to 100. With only 200 pins in the kit, there’s no allowance for losses. I hid the shortfall under the skirts.
The rest of the hull went together smoothly, but I left the fender skirts, fuel drums, headlights, tow cables, and unditching log off for painting.
The photoetched-metal engine screens fit well. I wondered how well the vinyl anti-radiation armor would work, but I needn’t have worried. It adhered with liquid cement, conforming nicely to the turret’s curves. The location of some of the ERA blocks was vague, but checking the surface before gluing finalized most of them.
Before adding the Shtora lights and ERA wedges to the turret front, sand off a minor mold seam. The LED circuit is fiddly, mostly because you need an extra hand to hold the assemblies. I appreciate the way all of the circuitry, including the battery, (not included) fits into the turret. Very neat and tidy!
The working hatches look good open or closed, and the machine gun is a gem.
Designed to be movable, the ’dozer blade requires careful construction of four hydraulic cylinders and pistons. (I could have used an extra hand here, too.) The interlocking photoetched-metal covers look more difficult than they are.
I painted the wheels, fenders, and lower hull, then installed the running gear, tracks, and skirts. Paint callouts are given for Vallejo acrylics. I used Humbrol enamels instead for the three-color camouflage.
The decals laid down perfectly over clear gloss.
The headlights were the biggest headache of the build. Two-part guards sandwich the lights, and have small, fragile attachment points. I had a hard time keeping everything together and aligned.
Finally, I attached the blade, fuel tanks, machine gun, and smoke launchers, popped in a battery (not included), flipped on the switch, and sat back to admire the tank.
This was a terrific build that, despite the high part count and numerous features, was virtually trouble-free. I spent about 60 hours on it, a lot of that on the tracks and painting. It looks good and was a blast to build. I recommend it to anyone comfortable handling small parts.
Note: A version of this review appeared in the February 2015 FineScale Modeler.