The Japanese Type 5 Chi-Ri medium tank was a proposed Sherman-killer that never made production - until now, thanks to FineMolds. Molded in tan plastic, the kit features well-detailed plastic parts, individual-link tracks, and a small sheet of photoetched metal. FineMolds provides several imaginary markings based on late-war markings and camouflage practice.
The instruction booklet has large, clear assembly diagrams. Several pages provide information about the real vehicle but, sadly, the text is all Japanese. A small addendum sheet shows more clearly the position of the pioneer tools on the front fender.
I started assembly with the one-piece lower hull. Only the very basics of an interior are provided in the kit. Take your time fitting the fenders (parts H31, H32, H35, and H36) and test-fit the upper hull to make sure everything lines up.
I followed my normal practice of leaving off the running gear and tracks until the hull was painted. The tracks are beautiful individual links (made by Modelkasten, I believe). They are split into upper and lower halves which trap the pins from the next link. If you take care in assembling them, you will wind up with workable track. I used 100 links per side as the instructions recommended, which produced a fairly tight set of tracks. Only a few extras links are provided.
The upper hull assembles easily. If you decide to build the model with pioneer tools and tow cables, you will need to open some holes in the upper hull. You can use one-piece molded tow cable or show the two cable clamps and brackets empty.
A large photoetched-metal screen is provided for the muffler. FineMolds provides a plastic bending form for this piece. I annealed the screen on my kitchen stove before bending it to shape.
The turret is a multipiece molding, but the fit is excellent. The only detail inside the turret is a full gun breech. Very nice, clear vision blocks are provided for the vision ports and cupola. All of the hatches may be positioned open or closed.
I painted my Chi-Ri with Tamiya acrylics mixed to my interpretation of the late-war colors. While references indicate the Japanese had started using soft-line camouflage late in the war, I decided to do a hard-edged scheme using Silly Putty masks. The decals went down smoothly with a bit of Micro Sol and Micro Set over a coat of clear flat, I applied an artist's-oil dark wash and dry-brushed highlights.
I spent about 21 hours on my tank. It matches exactly the dimensions I found in an article on Wikipedia. If you have an interest in Japanese armor, I highly recommend adding this kit to your collection.
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