See Aaron apply decals and assemble the individual-link tracks on the JSU-152 in FineScale.com's How-To videos.
As expected, Tamiya has followed up 2007’s JS-2 heavy tank with the JSU-152, the Red Army’s heavy-hitting, self-propelled gun based on the same chassis. The 152mm-toting behemoth has long been a favorite of Eastern Front modelers, but Tamiya’s kit trumps older offerings from Dragon in terms of accuracy, and Zvezda in ease of construction.
Molded in dark green plastic, the kit shares many parts with the JS-2: namely, the lower hull, running gear, and engine deck.
New parts are included for the blocky superstructure and main gun. The slab sides of the fighting compartment have molded pits and dimples that replicate rolled steel, and the mantlet features casting texture typical of the real vehicle. The main gun comprises halves for the barrel and a separate one-piece muzzle with cleanly molded fluting.
New also is a well-molded DShK machine gun as seen on some wartime JSUs. Optional loader’s-hatch surrounds include the gun’s mount.
As with the JS-2, both vinyl (rubber band) and plastic link-and-length tracks are provided. A jig to mold the latter into the upper-run sag characteristic of the vehicle is also included.
Photoetched-metal engine grilles, separate periscopes, a posable driver’s visor, nicely molded loader and commander figures, and, unlike the JS-2, a clear headlight lens are among the kit’s salient points. Decals provide markings for four late-war Soviet JSU-152s.
Typical of modern Tamiya kits, construction went very smoothly with only a couple of things to watch out for.
Starting at the front hull plate, I forgot the lesson of the JS-2 and added the spare-track links as instructed before building the hull. The links overlap the gap at the nose, complicating cleanup.
I left the wheels off until after painting, but I added the torsion-bar arms. They are keyed with a small locator pin to sit level, making the provided alignment jigs (parts A14) almost unnecessary. Articulating the suspension would be a simple matter of trimming the pins.
Step 4 is the construction of four auxiliary fuel tanks for the rear hull. These parts feature the most obvious seams on the models. A couple of applications of Mr. Surfacer 500 and sanding obliterated them.
The superstructure goes together well, with most of the seams hidden at natural joins. Pay attention in steps 10 and 12 to be sure you drill all of the holes required.
Step 11 revealed the kit’s biggest issue: The lower edge of the fighting compartment rear wall is too long, interfering with the fit of the sponson filler plates and the lower hull. I trimmed 1/16" from the ends and everything fit fine.
There’s no need to worry about the two-part gun barrel; it fits perfectly, and careful sanding eliminates the seam. The beautifully fluted muzzle fits well, too.
Vinyl polycaps allow the gun to elevate and traverse, but you’ll have to do a little surgery (clearly spelled out in the instructions) to achieve the latter. Also, careful gluing allows the mantlet cover (Part G47) to move as the gun does. The loader’s hatch is similarly designed to be movable and works very well. I glued the upper hatch open because it didn’t want to stay up by itself.
The string provided for tow cables is flexible and looks the part, but
it frays easily during handling and cutting. A drop of super glue on
the tips prevents it from coming apart before the ends are attached.
Enamored
of the large white 43s of marking option C, I didn’t fit the DShK and
left the shovel and pickaxe off until after painting and decaling.
After
priming the model with Polly Scale roof brown and airbrushing Model
Master Acryl Russian armor green, I weathered with Mig Productions
washes and pigments.
The link-and-length tracks assembled easily but needed extra work to remove small ejector-pin marks on the inside of each link.
The
10"-long finished model looks right, capturing the big vehicle’s stance
and bulk well. Photos show these self-propelled guns with heavy
weathering and missing fenders. The kit’s easy construction should make
it a great focal point for dioramas.