Fans of British armor are enjoying a recent flurry of new releases. Riich.Models has done its part with Universal Carriers, first a Mk.I and now a Mk.II. The latter adds a towing hitch. The rear compartment is rearranged to increase space, and steps are added to the hull sides for easier access to the rear.
The model is crisply molded in light gray plastic with only minor flash and easy-to-repair knockout marks. Fit is good with very little filler needed.
The 38-step directions show photoetched-metal parts in blue, but metal-folding directions are vague at times. A color sheet with seven choices of marking is provided. Some detail colors are called out, but you are left wanting more; reference photos were helpful. Be sure to fill all holes and remove all tabs according to the instructions.
Assembly starts with the engine, detailed with photoetched-metal parts for brackets and the radiator fan. However, the engine cover hides all that completely — I left it open to show it off. If you choose to use the engine, a small square on its bottom needs to be modified to fit in the hull. Also, mount the air canister (parts G5 and G6) on the rear wall of the engine compartment; glue part G36 to the canister after the engine is mounted.
The lower hull comprises multiple panels that fit square with no filler. I added the rear hull plate (L1) and firewall (L2) to ensure the lower hull remained true. I left off the gas tanks and boxes that fill the interior for easier painting.
The front seats are complicated work in a tight space. Photoetched-metal supports for the passenger seat are weak; I replaced them with styrene strip.
I assembled the front hull as in Step 26, but left it off until the interior was painted. Separate decals are supplied for each gauge. After the hull sides are on, you can glue the engine cover in place; make sure the radiator is mounted, though, or you will have a hollow space visible from the driver’s compartment.
I left the rear housing that covers the mufflers and rear axle (Step 35) separate. After painting, the fit needed no glue. In Step 6, I added the rear axle to the hull first, then added parts D25 and D26. Take care gluing the axle halves to allow parts B23 to rotate. I broke one off trying to loosen it after accidentally gluing it.
Suspension assembly comes early in the build. I followed this sequence, figuring that it would ease joining the small link-and-length track. The springs on the suspension are represented by inserting a small spring into a larger spring. This gives them realistic heft. You have a choice of a plastic-spring guide rod or making one out of brass rod and photoetched metal. I chose the easy option and went with the plastic; you won’t see it anyway. Be sure the ribbed side of the wheels is on the inside of the vehicle. The two-wheel bogies are attached to the hull by a small pin; I broke each one off the hull multiple times, so I inserted a small brass rod into the hull and bogie to give the suspension the needed strength. Part Pa 9 is a photoetched-metal piece representing one of the mud scrapers in the drive sprocket; it was not formed on my photoetched-metal sheet.
Despite seven sets of decals, all of them go on khaki drab. I primed with Vallejo UK bronze green; an overspray of LifeColor khaki olive drab provided highlights. AK Interactive satin sealed everything before I applied various filters and washes. The decals were strong enough to place without tearing, and they went down tight with no silvering.
I painted the tracks with a 1:1 mix of Tamiya flat black and red brown, brushed rust washes, and finished them off with AK Interactive polished steel.
This is a challenging build for experienced modelers. Having a complete interior, you must study the directions and plan carefully to make painting stress-free. Many of the photoetched-metal pieces have complicated bends not shown clearly in the directions. Consequently, it took a whopping 52 hours to build a model not much bigger than a jeep. Still, it all results in a stunning model.
Note: A version of this review appeared in the December 2014 FineScale Modeler.