The detailed step-by-step process to superglue clear parts without causing fogging at the end
You can use any superglue for this technique, but I find a medium viscosity superglue works the best. Using accelerator will lessen the chances of fogging, but the key is to go easy on both superglue and kicker. Also, use a fresh bottle of superglue.
Wax both sides of the clear part, let it dry, and buff it out. This acts as a protectant in case the superglue creates any fog. You can buff it out easier off of wax than raw plastic. If you painted your clear part, use a liquid wax after painting and buff softly to avoid removing paint.
You can see here the Camaro window is wider than the opening. Superglue is one of the best ways to get it to fit. The window has been sanded and reshaped to fit as well as possible, but it is simply too wide where it meets the B-pillars.
Apply a small amount of accelerator to a few spots around the window opening, not directly to the clear part — it can craze the plastic or affect the paint. Let the accelerator dry for several minutes; the longer you wait, the more time you have to position the part. The less time you wait, the quicker the superglue will cure.
Tack the part in. For this window, I tacked one corner at the base of the B-pillar and let it set for a couple of minutes before gluing the other side. I used a bent straight pin to apply the superglue for pinpoint accuracy. In this case, I placed tape, well away from where the glue was applied, to make holding the window in position easier.
After gluing the other side near the B-pillar, I removed the tape and placed a drop of superglue to the rear of the window with the pin. I could have called it done at this point, but I wanted a bit more reinforcement.
A bead of R/C 560 Canopy Glue was applied to the inside perimeter from the bottle, and I cleaned up the excess with a damp cotton swab and paper towel. The wax applied earlier helped make cleaning up the Canopy Glue a breeze.
I used the same technique for the windshield, but with a few more tack points because of fewer sides it attaches to. I applied the accelerator to the entire channel around the part and allowed it to dry for 20 minutes before attaching the windshield, starting with the bottom corners.
Two more drops of superglue were applied to the top corners, and, after a couple of minutes to be safe, I removed the tape holding the windshield in place. Then I ran a tiny bead of superglue around the full perimeter for added strength.
Letting the accelerator dry longer allowed the superglue to flow in deeper before it “kicked off” but also prevented it from seeping through to the car exterior. The superglue cured within less than a minute, but I let it sit for a good five minutes before I buffed my fingerprints off the glass.
This is the final result, and the windshield and rear window have about as strong a bond to the body as they can without fogging. Superglue can also be used after initially setting the glass with another adhesive to add extra strength; this works with well-fitting windows you want to install permanently. Superglue isn’t always the best option, but it is one of several choices available to you, and knowing how to apply it to clear parts without fear of fogging is a good skill to have.