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Replicate bullet holes, rust, dents, and severe damage on scale models

All you'll need is a rotary tool, a selection of grinding and burr bits, and the guts to deface a pristine model kit
RELATED TOPICS: SNAPSHOT | HOW TO | MODELING TOOLS | WEATHERING
Whether you are going for beat up, shot through, or full-on junk yard, replicating damage on your model can add visual interest and be a lot of fun. First, you’ll need a rotary tool. Sure, you can simulate damage with sandpaper/pad and files, but they’re better left for final shaping and finish. The next — and hardest — step is to make the commitment to damaging an otherwise pristine subject. However, once you start, it can be hard to stop. Then again, who says you need to?
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You’ll need a selection of cutting and grinding bits for your rotary tool. Use a grinding bit to create dents and thinning plastic. It will work slower than a burr bit and give you more control. Small round burrs cut plastic and remove material quickly. 
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Often, molded plastic parts are more than scale thick. Use a grinding bit to thin areas where damage goes all the way through the part, like bullet holes and places that have rusted through.
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After thinning the part, use your burrs to carve the piece, keeping in mind the damage you want to replicate. Here, I want to represent damage from shrapnel that tore up a fender. Use photo references for help.
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The same shrapnel shredded the tire and damaged the rim. In this case, cut holes and gouges in the tire with a burr until you’re satisfied. Go slowly. Remember, you can always remove more, but you can’t put it back.
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Don’t worry if some plastic melts to the burr while cutting. Go slow when cutting to keep the burr from skipping and to minimize melting. When it happens, remove it with a hobby knife, cutting away from the bit’s head.
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A pristine wheel and tire compared to the shredded part. Notice the rough spots on the plastic where it’s obvious a burr chewed through the plastic? Let’s take care of that.
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When you’re finished gouging the part with a burr, give it a light coat of thin liquid cement. It melts the plastic just enough to hide the burr marks and smooths rough edges.
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A small file can help fine-tune the damage you’ve modeled. You have more control with it than the rotary tool, and you won’t mar the work you’ve already done.
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How do you make a plastic tire look flat? Hold the side you want to flatten over a small candle flame (not too close!), heat it up, and then press it down on your work surface. This works on parts without holes, too.
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Dents don’t require thinning and don’t go all the way through a part. Using a rounded or bullet-shaped grinding bit, simply make depressions in the plastic part, trying for a shape that looks like a dent.
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Do not make your dent from just one angle; it’ll end up looking like a gouge. Adjust your angle and the portion of the bit you’re using to achieve the look you want. Stop often to assess your progress.
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Following up with a half-round file helps create the final shape of the dent and smooth the edges.
Using these techniques will allow you to beat up just about any subject — set your imagination free. Time to shred!

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Essential finishing techniques for scale modelers.
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