Kit: No. 0202
Scale: 1/48
Manufacturer: Ocidental Replicas, distributed by Precision Parts Corp., 1568 Merivale Rd. No. 228, Nepean, ON, K2G 5Y7, Canada, &613-224-9071
Price: $29.98
Comments: Injection molded, 66 parts, decals.
Pros: Accurate dimensions, easy to build
Cons: Inaccurate nose contours, moderate fit problems, incompletely molded canopy, thick small parts
The British developed the Spitfire Mk.IX as an interim fighter while the Griffon-engined versions of the Spitfire were being developed. However, the Mk.IX turned out to be a match for the feared Fw 190 in 1942, and more Mk.IXs were built than any other variant after the Mk.V. Most Mk.IXs were armed with a pair of 20mm cannons and four .30-cal. machine guns, but the "e" wing added two inboard .50-cal. guns and bomb-carrying capability up to 1,000 pounds.
Ocidental's kit is molded in a light gray plastic with clear three-piece canopy and gun-sight reflector. While the late-production "e" wing is provided, the kit also has the early narrow-chord rudder. Spitfire components were interchangeable, but this combination seems odd.
Before starting construction, study the 12-step pictogram instructions and the few small reference photos included. The cockpit interior is adequate, but you may want to add a seat harness.
The location of some of the sidewall details is vague. You can capture the cockpit inside the fuselage halves as shown in step 4, but you can also slide it up through the opened bottom after gluing the fuselage halves together in step 5.
Wing assembly was easy, but the 20mm cannon panels are too small and the blisters should be taller and teardrop-shaped. Leaving the connecting sprue for the cannons and .50-cal. stub in place makes installing them easier. The wing/fuselage joint was good, but the dihedral seems a little flat. The belly formation light must be installed from the inside, not as shown in the instructions.
The horizontal tail surfaces are too thick for the scale, and the rudder fits better to the fin if you clip off the leading-edge tab. The wingtip part numbers are switched in the instructions (No. 22 goes on the right), and the tips need to be sanded for a good fit. I had to fill and sand the mating surface and test fit the long carburetor intake/filter (26) to get it to fit right.
Ocidental's method of cowl construction is unusual, and I cut part 28 in half so I could install the exhaust stacks after painting the camouflage. I left out the engine cover (29).
My sample's windscreen and canopy were incompletely molded, so I had to use after-market vacuum-formed canopy parts. I did need to use the base of the kit windscreen, though.
I sanded the assembled model to sharpen the soft recessed panel lines and remove minor molding flaws. I had to fill a couple sink holes on the underside of each wing.
I liked the modeling paint list accompanying the color and markings diagrams. After painting with Testor Model Master and AeroMaster enamels, I moved on to the decals. The well-printed AeroMaster sheet has markings for one Royal Air Force and one Free French machine. They responded well to a light application of Solvaset.
I replaced the wheels with aftermarket examples, as the kit wheels are not correct for this vintage Spitfire. The strut oleo scissors are too thick. Ocidental labels the main gear doors with the same part number (40), but they are "handed" - check photos to see which goes where.
The individual propeller blades were simple to assemble, but the spinner is too bulbous; it can be fixed with careful sanding.
While the finished model measures within a few scale inches of the data in countless Spitfire references, there are shape problems that are not easy to correct. The valve-cover area of the cowl isn't bulged enough, and the forward end of the nose is too blunt. The 20mm cannon fairings aren't long enough, and the antenna mast and pitot are a bit fat. Beginners may not notice these inaccuracies, but enthusiasts will want to fix them. I spent 18 hours on my sample, and that was enough to make it look presentable.
- Ross Whitaker