Hobbycraft 1/32 scale Fokker Dr.I "Late Aces"

Kit: No. HC1698
Scale: 1/32
Manufacturer: Hobbycraft Canada, 905-738-6329, www.hobbycraft.com
Price: $34
Comments: Injection-molded, 58 parts, decals
Pros: Excellent decals
Cons: Grossly oversized wing and tail rib-tape detail but no fabric sag representation, several parts must be modified to fit, no instrument face decals, inaccurate shapes

The Fokker Dr.I is probably the best known aircraft of World War I because of its association with the Red Barron - Manfred von Richthofen. Hobbycraft's 1/32 scale release of this aircraft follows its kits of the Sopwith Camel and Spad XIII. The kit includes parts for the earlier F.I and the Dr.I, including alternate horizontal stabilizers, ailerons, and propellers. Hobbycraft's offerings are packaged as "Early Aces" and "Late Aces," each with the same parts but different decals. The sturdy box has color profiles for the marking options on the bottom. This issue has six schemes offered, including the Red Barron's all red 425/17, three schemes for J. Jacob's 450/17, the streaked green and yellow Jasta 27 aircraft of R. Klimke, and the streaked green and white aircraft of H. Goring. The decals are top notch and the highlight of the kit.

Starting with step one in the instructions, the builder is directed to modify some of the kit parts so they will fit properly. In essence, the builder is making corrections that would normally have been made by the manufacturer before release. Recontouring bulkheads, shortening frames, drilling holes, and supplying the axle for the rotary engine are all on the "to do" list.

The fix for the major fault in the kit is not suggested. Hobbycraft's representation of the wing's and horizontal stabilizer's fabric-covered surfaces is given as grossly exaggerated ridges. There's no simulation of gently rippled sags between ribs, so simply shaving off the ridges is only a partial fix. Also, the holes for the control cables on the flying surfaces are too big, and there's no clear piece for the small inspection window in the top wing.

Cockpit details are adequate for the scale, but there are no decals for the instrument faces. The machine-gun-belt feeds must be trimmed to mount the guns.

Step 10 gives the correct part numbers but incorrect pictures for the F.I and Dr.I tail planes. They are distinctive, so study the box's color guide to determine which ones should be on the airframe you model. To make the upper wing fit properly with the cabane struts, you'll need to mount the struts in the holes shown for "rigging" in step 19.

Step 19 also indicates that you have to deepen the slots in the landing-gear axle wing to receive the struts. The forward struts are too long and there are no holes to receive them in the fuselage. You'll have to shorten them or drill deep holes to properly align the landing-gear axle wing.

The exaggerated ribbing would make any green-streaked scheme difficult to accomplish, so I painted J. Jacobs all-black machine with Polly Scale colors and clear coats. The good quality decals went on well, but it was difficult getting them over the ridges on the wings despite their good response to decal softening solution.

The finished model has wing spans about 4 or 5 scale inches short, a slightly small rudder, a rear fuselage not quite deep enough, and easily correctable sharp corners on the ailerons.

I spent 36 hours on the model, much of it on the instructed corrections. After building Hobbycraft's excellent Spad XIII (Feb. 2002 FSM), I was disappointed in the Fokker. I think most serious modelers will find the best correction for this kit is to choose Roden's kit (Oct. 2005 FSM).

- Dr. Bill Funcke