An all-new, injection-molded kit of the F-80 has been due for decades. If you're used to the old Airfix kit (or the poor Gran clone), you'll be pleased to see that Sword has done a fine job on the details. The kit has recessed panel lines and a glossy surface, and accurately captures the subtle shapes of the jet.
However, many of the small parts have a lot of flash; trimming the fragile bits is tricky. The kit provides a fine two-part canopy (with a much-better shape than the Airfix), choice of standard or Misawa tip tanks, two underwing bombs, and alternate nose wheels. Resin parts include well-detailed nose- and main-landing-gear wells and an ejection seat with a molded-in harness. Decals for two Korean War jets are
Evil Eye Fleagle (without shark mouth) and
Kansas Tornado. An accompanying RF-80 kit also has been released. While the box top and instructions say "P-80C," this version of Lockheed's first jet was designated F-80C in service.
The interior came first. While the cockpit went together without trouble, getting it into the fuselage was difficult. Before closing the fuselage, you must insert the cockpit tub, nose-gear well, and the inner faces of both intakes. You also have to put weight in the nose to balance the model on all three wheels. There are no positive locators for the cockpit tub and nose gear bay, other than aligning them with their corresponding fuselage openings. You have to make room for the attachment of the wing with its resin main-gear/speed brake wells, too. It doesn't look bad until you try to squeeze the fuselage halves together. I was able to, but noticed too late that the cockpit tub pushed the inner intake faces outboard. I think the culprit here is the thick intake parts. Sand both surfaces (inner face and rear plate) of each one from the inside until they are nearly paper thin, then glue them carefully to the fuselage halves. This should make room for the cockpit tub.
The big, flat pour stub on top of the main-gear well will not interfere with its fit, so don't bother trying to saw or grind it off. The exhaust tube is molded in halves, so it needs cleanup.
I chose the extended-range Misawa tanks. Note: Their mounts are a bit taller on the outboard side; check before you glue them to the underside of the wings.
There are no locating pins for the landing gear doors, and only undersize dimples for the main struts and shallow holes in the wheels. All needed to be drilled out to fit the strut pins.
I painted the model with SnJ Talon acrylic metalizer and trusty Testors No. 1111 dark blue for the trim. The decals went on well but are very thin and tricky to place. The olive-drab antiglare decal didn't conform to the compound curve of the nose, even after liberal applications of Solvaset. I have my doubts about the duplication of the mission tally markings for the right side of the aircraft, so I applied only the ones on the left side.
Trouble with the fit and installation of the small parts brought my build time to 34 hours. Now that I know better, I suspect that I'll need less time on the next one. It's an attractive model when finished, but it isn't for beginners.
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